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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.